Home

Changing a Sediment Water Filter Cartridge

www.waterfilters.net Aquaman demonstrates how to modulation a Sediment Water Filter Cartridge and offers some useful tips on general maintenance ...

Hot Water Filtration ...What are my options???

Jan 25, 2007 by Q&A Man | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I have a stiff hot water boiler via tankless coil hot water heater. Water has heavy iron and other typical minerals. Screen on hot water side of washing auto CONSTANTLY plugs up. Already double cartidges on domestic cold before boiler, I know I should get a softener system, but are there any other Set someone back EFFECTIVE options? Does a cheap in-line screen (near washing machine)or run system exist that can reliably withstand 170Deg. heat? Standard cartridge filter systems will fail on hot water systems. I condign want to stop doing weekly maintence on the Washing machine. I've almost worn out the flexible inlet on it, which means a $100 soleniod replacement when you strip that out! Any Suggestions welcome!!

The iron is dissolved in the water and must be removed via oxidation. A water softener is skilful of removing small amounts of iron and will need more frequent regeneration. Potassium permanganate or chlorine are also acquainted with in treatment systems and are better suited for iron removal.
Particulate filters such as those you are using will kick out solids from the water but not dissolved elements. I have a pair of particulate filters at the input to my water softener to help keep it spill the beans inside.

How do I unscrew the water filter cartridge holder?

Mar 05, 2009 by The Divine Bubba Blue | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I shut off off both hot and cold water under the sink and then I left both faucets open to depressurize the system. I have tugged and pulled and twisted the damn obsession so hard that I've pulled a muscle in my back. It has not moved a hair - not a micron.

What am I doing wrong?

It is an under-go down to filter with three cartridges.

The worst part is: without filtration, the water may be "safe" but I wouldn't give it to an enemy. Tastes like chlorinated algae.
Yes, I am doing it the amend way. I think the tool is the best way to go. Thanks everyone.
By the "right way", I mean in the correct conducting. Thanks anyway, I bet people do try to unscrew it the wrong way, and hopefully that will help someone who searches for this in the future.

I had the same tough nut to crack with a Pur faucet attachment. I got one of those tools that unscrews the oil filter or some other part in a car. Its a metal strap on a handle and when you turn it, it tightens itself on the fulter. Or try using a scrapings of padded grippy shelf liner and a large jar opener. I buy that liner by the roll at Costco and use it for dozens of things. I you don't have it use a rubber glove or sprinkle mat. If the filter is small enough you can use channel lock pliers. Remember righty tighty, lefty loosey. So remodel left to remove it.

What's a pratical solution for green water in a freshwater aquarium?

Jun 15, 2006 by shannontakita | Posted in Fish

I have an established 50-gallon aquarium. Ammonia or nitrite levels have never been remaining, and nitrates are generally between 1-5 ppm. In addition to the presence of nitrates and moderate light, my tap water also has high concentration of phosphorus, resulting in unripened water formation within a day of water changes.

Is there any real solution to this, besides the stop-gap measures of light deprivation or the drastic adoption of R/O filtration? Are micron cartridges or diatom filters any benign, or simply quick fixes? Thanks so much!
Algae eaters do not eat free-floating algae. They are not clarify feeders and can only tackle limited types of algae.
The tank has 1 fluorescent tube, lit for 6 hours a day. There it no sunlight in the space, at any given time. My predominant concern is the amendment of phosphorous by my water municipality. Since this is done in high amounts to baulk pipe corrosion, the established algae readily capitalize on the supply every time I do a water change.

Another involve is the use of R/O filters and UV sterilizers, since R/O removes all trace elements and sterilizers oxidize nutrients, leaving them unusable. I was hoping there might be a candid, less costly solution for long-term control.

The two chokepoints for algae command are nutrients and lighting. There are two ways to reduce nutrients. The passive way is to reduce feedings to every other day, or so. The active method is to heavily works your tank. Since you're NO3 levels are pretty low to begin with, though, I'd say your only option, aside from using deionized or d-osmosis water would be a complete light blackout for 3-4 days to knock the algae back, then sizable reduction in your lighting succession after that. Hope this helps, I had the same problem with my 55gal fw tank.