Viair 90101 85-105 PSI Pressure Switch


Viair

List Price: $16.95
Price: $16.95

Product Details

  • Dual 1/4 inch spade connectors
  • 1/8 inch NPT man's port connection
  • VIAIR recommends the use of non adjustable pressure switches with its compressors

Well Pressure Switches

Honourable D pressure switch


Why does the pressure switch on my water well constantly kick off and on?

Jan 05, 2008 by purplelynn095 | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

A match up of weeks ago I found a hole in an underground pipe at my water well. I started having trouble with the well again today. The pressure switch is constantly kicking off and about every 5 minutes (no exageration) I am having to go and tap the pressure switch to get the adulterate to come back on. Any suggestions?

It may be that the air in the pressure tank has leaked out. If that is the come what may there is nothing to hold the pressure (water cannot be compressed. It is only the air in the tank that gets compressed.)
What to do?
Turn off the pump, disconnect the tooter that goes into the tank. Let all the water drain from the tank, (you may have to open a sink tap to allow air into the tank so the open-handedly can drain). Close the tap, reconnect the pipes and start the pump.
There should now be sufficient air in the tank to maintain the pressure for a longer age of time.
Good luck.

ijcoffin | Jan 05, 2008

It may be that the air in the pressure tank has leaked out. If that is the package there is nothing to hold the pressure (water cannot be compressed. It is only the air in the tank that gets compressed.)
What to do?
Turn off the pump, disconnect the channel that goes into the tank. Let all the water drain from the tank, (you may have to open a sink tap to allow air into the tank so the modify can drain). Close the tap, reconnect the pipes and start the pump.
There should now be sufficient air in the tank to maintain the pressure for a longer interval of time.
Good luck.
ijcoffin | Jan 05, 2008

well purple, not in reality sure what the problem is, however when I have the pump people out to all my rentals,it seems as though I ask the same questions.
The answer is always the same...I either have a leak in the pipes below, there is a broken gage that has rusted out and needs changing or the blatter is damaged or needs recharging with air or something similar.
I changed out my pipes that had rusted once to pex tubing and no more problems.
another occasion on another pump it was the gage on the tank that froze and had to be changed out.
prior to that, the previous owner had just changed out the storage/pressure tank as the blatter had gone bad on him.
Now I've gone 6 yrs without a intractable in all the tanks and can't say anything other than call in a pro. Mine usually cost about 75 to have it diagnosed and the problem costs can very.
Be careful, you have a yen for to remedy this at the surface now, rather then have someone have to pull your pump from 200' below and replace the pump...that's about 2500-3000 bucks
ticketoride04 | Jan 05, 2008

The air pressure tank needs to be recharged or the bladder in the tank is leaking.
bobo | Jan 05, 2008

There could be crud in the pipe of peace that goes to your pressure switch.or the switch could be bad. they are cheap.


bo bo is correct the tank has a rubber diaphram in the middle of it. you can knock on the tank the top should breed a higher pitched sound(hollow) if not it is waterlogged(bad) it needs replacing. there is a valve on the tank same as a wear out nsee if you get air out of it.If you get water tank is bad.
coz | Jan 06, 2008

Does a well pump pressure switch require a pressure tank for it to turn the pump on and off?

Sep 14, 2007 by Steve | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

I was testing my newly replaced 1/2 hp thin well pump by connecting it to the original supply and to a copper nipple with a shutoff spigot on the end. First wanted to think sure the pump was working before hooking it back into the pressure tank and the rest of the plumbing system.

The pump primed and pumped ok, but when I went to to b go off the valve on the spigot, the pump would start switching off and on quickly as the water flowed decreased (pressure increased). When the valve was thoroughly shut, the pump mostly stayed off but every 5 seconds or so, tried to turn on and then went back off quickly.

I tried adjusting the pressure screws but decreasing the cutout pressure, it was a itty-bitty better, but it still tried to turn on every 5 seconds or so.

I just wonder if the well pump needs to be hooked up to the tank for the pressure switch to exertion properly. Can someone let me know?

Also there was a tube that went from the pressure tank to the old well pump. What is that used for?

yes you constraint to have it connected to the tank for it to operate properly......without a tank the pump is building pressure very fast and then switch shuts off as promptly as shuts off there will not be back pressure on the pump so it will come on immediately.......the line you are talking about most likely went to a connector on the suction side of the old swell and then to a air volume control valve on the tank....air volume control valve is round with a ball valve or it could be wrangle with a clear bottom on it to allow the pump to suck some air so your tank will not water log.....having this shows you do not have a air bladder tank or air bag tank....you will necessary to reconnect this to the new pump in the same place as on the old pump...on the suction side of the pump....usually this goes on the back of the electrify where the line goes into the pump....

wwwstat | Sep 15, 2007

Repeated condensation of water in the pressure switch tube of my gas furnace! How to deal with this problem?

Dec 01, 2007 by Travis | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs

A negligible amount of water collects in the pressure switch tube of my gas furnace every week which is located in the basement, enough not to close the pressure switch and therefore causing the furnace to click ON and OFF continuously. The furnace keeps clicking which turns the burners ON and OFF frequently. This will keep happening until I empty the water from the tube and replace it back. Then, furnace works fine for another week and again the whole cycle repeats.

Does anyone have correspond to problem and know how to fix this?

I invent you need a T fitting with a tube to drain off the condensate.

Flying Felix | Dec 01, 2007

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