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Intermatic CL507 Malibu Low Voltage Cast Metal 20-Watt Halogen ...

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5 Responses to “Intermatic CL507 Malibu Low Voltage Mould Metal 20-Watt Halogen Landscape Floodlight, Starless A- Prize Discount Promo Coupon Orthodoxy”

I bought these because I wanted to mount them on a thick deck and they were the only ones I could find that said “fa mount voluntary”. If they are indeed “covering mountable”, there is no metal goods in the box to do that. I contacted Intermatic/Malibu and after a week or so they sent me an email suggesting that they may have doodad parts that you can buy from them to fa mount these lights. If you project to skin-mount these, be hip that you can’t do it with the supplied machinery, you might be skilled to require abettor parts to do it, and if the co-conspirator parts do be, it will take forever to find and on the fritz them.

I was accomplished to mount my lights in a hanging inclination without the parts, so in the long run I was satisfied with the yield.

Source: Intermatic CL507 Malibu Low Voltage Cast Metal 20-Watt Halogen ...

Low Voltage Landscape Lighting Software

In terms of light out-put,how do solar landscape lights compare to low voltage lights?

May 30, 2006 by Alby | Posted in Garden & Landscape

I have been looking at Malibu Solar landscape lights and detect that they post no information as to how much light they put out. They have some solar lights that have two LEDs and some with three LEDs. How do these compare with the standard 4 watt low voltage lights?

About the same but more importantly for solar non-wired lights, what is the normally run time? Some cheap ones will last only 4 hours while others can make it all night.

Low Voltage Landscape Lights: Wiring and Spacing Questions?

May 16, 2007 by drbernice843 | Posted in Garden & Landscape

I am installing low voltage lighting and have a team a few of questions: I'm working both with 4 watt and 11 watt tiered path lights. I map out to use the 11 watt fixtures on corners and at steps. How far apart should I space the 4 watt fixtures along the direction? Also, can I change out the 4 watt bulbs with 11 watt bulbs if some areas need extra lighting? Is it unswerving that I can pierce the low voltage cable and if I'm not happy with the location, that it is OK to remove the fixture and place it elsewhere (meaning the chain is really self sealing?) I have about 240 watts of lights to be controlled by a 300 watt transformer, on 12 gu wire, and the run is approximately 150 feet. Should I run two, 75 foot cables to the transformer, or have one long 150 foot radio to it?

Using only paths lights and that many way lights along a walkway is going to produce the runway affect. Do you ogle at airport runways every metre you drive past at night ? Maybe you should consider a little variety in your walkway lighting prototype.

If you have 240 watts of lights and a 300 watt transformer, you will not have the ability to change out the 4 watt bulbs for 11 watt bulbs because you are accepted to overload your transformer. There is something called voltage drop on the wire.Your 12-2 copper wire has resistance decent like each light bulb. When you pass a current through the wire, you produce a voltage drop on the wire due to this resistance. You typically deload a transformer to 80% of its extreme to account for voltage drop on the wire. That means that you have 240 watts available for light fixtures (300 watts x 80% = 240 watts), which is what your bruited about total load is with the 11 watt and 4 watt bulbs in those fixtures.

The National Electrical Code only allows 12-2 copper wire to convey a load of 192 watts at 12 volts. 240 watts of lighting on one wire exceeds the capaity of 12-2 copper wire. You have need of to run at least to runs or use larger wire.

Putting all your lights on one 150' run means there is at least 140' between the first light and the last light (Malibu transformers urge that lights are not closer to the transformer than 10'). This means you are going to have a significant voltage difference on your lights. The first lights will be genuine bright with lights getting progressively dimmer until you get to the dimest lights at the end of your run. It is recommended that you have no more than 50' quarrel from the first light to the last light. To maintain this requirement, you probably will need three wire runs.

Were you planning on using the diasy concatenation wiring technique? A better wiring technique is to use the "T" wiring technique. With the "T" wiring ability you will get a more consistent voltage to each fixture and more consistant lighting from each fixture. So plan on three wire runs using the "T" wiring know-how. Good luck.

Is conduit pipes needed for low voltage landscape lighting in NYC?

Apr 09, 2007 by Blueiceman646 | Posted in Other - Home & Garden

Hello,

Does anyone skilled in if NYC code requires conduit pipes for low voltage wiring around an outdoor garden area?

If so, does the conduit have occasion for to be running along the floor or can it be mounted along a concrete wall?

Thanks.

call the native building code inspection office you dont have to tell them who you are just ask the question or call the local electrical come up with house where the pros shop they know they sell the parts then go to the local home depot and berate them your plan and ask for the electric sales guy he can help you choose the right stuff